Wednesday, March 21, 2012

Waitomo Caves

Wai (water) + Tomo (entrance) = "where water enters the earth"
Starting with a 27m abseil... not bad.
The cave we've visited (there are many in the area) is slowly going down to 100m below the ground.
The new cavemen going to discover Black Water Rafting! 
It's the best way to visit a cave: slow paced (you have to paddle sometimes) and without the headlights you admire thousands glow worms on the ceiling.
Let's say I was playing spiderman in a tight and wet hole...
 You can see some green dots on this picture... without our lights it looks like a cloudless night sky.
A closer view on a glow worm shows its "catching lines" and the green light (emitted by oxygenated poo) is there to attract flies and mosquitoes. The brighter it is glowing the more hungry it is.
It's dark cold wet and you wear a stupid outfit but that's fun!

Saturday, March 17, 2012

Feb 6 - Waitangi day

All this began in 1840 when the British authorities proposed a treaty to the dozens of Maori tribes living in NZ... and they still celebrate that specific agreement today. There is a lot of talk about the English and Maori versions of the document... so keep it simple: it's the base of NZ constitution and an agreement for British settlements in Aoteaora (NZ).
 War canoes arriving on Waitangi beach
 Ass tattoo...
 Young people are learning secular traditions
 and performing the traditional Haka dance.
All dances are started by a guy blowing into a huge shell producing a horn sound (the one on the right foreground).
Detail of a Marae (Maori meeting house) column with our little T'choupi playing in that mouth ;-)
There is also a huge festival where you can buy jewelry, T-shirts, deep double fried food, ice-cream in watermelons... and so on. I found only one tent selling this delicious "beef and veggies meal on a leaf" (It has no real name "What you see is what you get" said the lady!) .
Philip asked for a 'moko' - traditional tattoo which meaning is more important than final look or shape.
The final result is purely amazing: it is full of details and the shades of grey (not typical maori) are matching older tattoo on his shoulder. And the chef was back on duty for a huge BBQ in the evening.
When you see this...
...you feel like back in 1840.
This is my favorite picture! You can see the very first NZ flag that was designed with the advice of numerous Maori tribes at the beginning of 19th century.

From Gisborne to Table Cape

Did I tell you about sleeping in my car?
James Cook landed in this place in 1769 and because of some misunderstanding his crew started to shoot at the Maori people. They left without fresh food and named the area "Poverty Bay" ...how unfair.
We stopped by a geothermal spa...
I think the following is a perfect demotivational picture "When you've reached the top you can only look down" - thanks Kevin.
When we arrived at Table Cape we were greeted by an amazing pink sunset and an alarming message on the board computer "Transmission service required" ...hopefully it was nothing bad, just a reminder. When the nearest town is 160 km away you realize how bad your are with cars.

Tikitiki church and Rere falls

In Tikitiki there is a church giving an idea of the inside of a "marae" (Maori traditional meeting house which access is forbidden to strangers). It is trully fascinating how cultures have been mixed: the panel in the middle is representing life as a stairway to heaven and the panel with the big black crosses stands for the milky way...
You won't find traditional Saints here but maori representations of their first members that have been converted to Christianity.
 Pushing the road a bit further from Gisborne the Rere falls are a 30m wide cold shower.
 Close to a Karcher at the beginning...
 ...then a water curtain...
 ...you can discover from the other side!
Our meals will remain as the best a backpacker has ever seen! After Kamo kamo as a soup, the same with beer steamed spicy noodles, we were cooking this kind of big cucumber with butter and garlic and lentils with Coppa (this picture) and we finished the beast sized vegetable in a cheese fondue!
 PS: The flash is misleading... I was just holding a torch.

Waking up on the East Cape

 Camping on the top is not allowed... well it is beautiful to wake up there.
 It is said this is the first place on earth to see the sunrise before Japan (if you take into account the day-change-line)
 At this moment you don't feel cold or sleepy... just happy.
 Sunrise+Coffe+Bread+Nutella=Good morning!


From Waihau Bay to East Cape

In Whakatone I met two nice frenchies willing to go East ...so did we! Starting with NZ rod fishing contest in Waihau Bay: these guys are catching marlins, tuna and even sharks up to 300kg! We thought it would be nice to do some boat-stop...
 ...but the weather was going to be a problem so we gave up.
In the East there is nothing but small townships (like a dozen homes and one small shop), forests and wild coast.
 Well this is reassuring!
 T'choupi climbing one of the biggest trees on earth (only 20m high but 40m wide!)
 Further on the coast I saw Shadowfax! (LOTR fans will get that is Gandalf's horse).
 Beautiful yet dangerous gravel roads are leading us to...
...more than private beaches!
  And some say this part of NZ is not worth it!

Whakatone and Ohope beach

Sorry for the long silence on this blog, uploading pictures is not only slow here and therefore boring as hell but then you miss precious moments being outside or miss some sleeping in the trunk of your car. I dropped the linear storytelling thing because of 1) the crappy computer I'm using and 2) because I returned several times to this place: Ohope beach.

First time I met my Canadian friend Erika who got trapped there for a few weeks. Wonderful evening followed by a swim at sunset but a dog stole our chocolate!
Below is the statue of local hero girl, Wairaka, who conducted the waka (kind of big canoe) to safe waters when it was drifting towards rocks although in Maori tradition it was "tapu" (taboo, sacred) only men were allowed to pilot. When this tribe arrived in NZ all men went on the shore while women and children stayed onboard. The tide drifted them away dangerously and she shouted "I shall act as a man" ... that event named the place "Whakatone".
This town is famous for being the sunniest place in whole New Zealand. At the information center they even sell sun-ray-in-a-can! Sunsets are perfect don't you think?
The last time in Ohope we've decided with my french friend Kevin (who appears to be bricklayer) to build a proper floated-wood-house on the beach...
and after 4 hours of work it looked like this!
On the next morning we had breakfast in the garden...